Friday, February 21, 2014

Survival at high altitudes

1. Eat lots of garlic
When planning to venture at high altitude, try consuming as much garlic as possible for a few days before departure. Your boyfriend might not appreciate it (note: I am not taking personal responsibility for break-ups ensuing application of this particular piece of advice), but your body will: high garlic consumption seems to help multiply red blood cells, which physically prepares you to the lack of oxygen.
Not a huge garlic fan? Most mountain town pharmacies sell garlic pills (pastillas de ajo), which you can just swallow to avoid the taste. Take one every 8 hours with a glass of water during your stay (according to the pharmacist in Humahuaca).
 A guide to getting high: surviving the altitude
I also remember reading in a book about Peru that taking Arnica homeopathic pills for a few days before facing the altitude helped your body handle it. I have no scientific evidence to back this, but it is always good to carry some with you anyway, as they help relieve the pain of blows and bruises (yes, it is likely that you will fall over or bump into a rock at some point or another while playing in the mountain).
The spectacular Road 52 between Purmamarca and the Salinas Grandes A guide to getting high: surviving the altitude
2. Go up p-r-o-g-r-e-s-s-i-v-e-l-y
After 3 000 meters, it is recommended not to go up more than 400 meters a day to give your body time to adjust. I actually drove from Tilcara (2 465 m) to the highest point of the spectacular Road 52 which leads to Chile (4 170 m) in one afternoon – but got so exhausted after my two-minute walk at the top that I fell sound asleep as soon as I got back into the car (no, I wasn’t the one behind the wheel).
If the symptoms you experience are very acute, the only solution is to go back down until they stop. Mountain sickness affects everyone differently: give yourself time to adapt to this new environment!
Llamas crossing A guide to getting high: surviving the altitude
3. Don’t run!
Your inner travel junkie might have trouble refraining for jumping with excitement or pulling a victory dance every time you discover somewhere new. Up high in the mountain though, you might have to pace your overactive self! During the first few days, you will feel like you lost your stamina: routine activities such as going up the stairs or simply carrying your bag will leave you short of breath. I learnt this one the hard way, after pretty much running up a hill jumping on rocks in excitement to discover the view – which turned out extremely enjoyable, but the nosebleed that followed was not.
3943322799 76a24915bd o 600x402 A guide to getting high: surviving the altitudephoto by i, cjw
Oh, and you know the annoying dizziness you usually get when getting up too quickly? Well, multiply it by about fifty and you’ll get an idea of what it will do to you at 4 000 meters of altitude (yes, it pretty much feels like the whole world is collapsing around you while you get sucked into a giant vortex). Take a few more seconds to get up and you’ll be fine!

4. Give up your bad habits
“No smoking! No drinking!”, said the Argentinian pharmacist, intensely frowning in disapprobation and repeatedly mimicking the gestures to make sure I understood. Well, I can assure you – based on empirical research – that a glass of wine (or two) with dinner will not harm you. Besides, it would be a crime to miss out on Argentina’s intensely aromatic Malbecs and delicate Chardonnays. Yet avoid finishing the bottle of rum/pisco/tequila at 5 am and passing out on the floor if you have planned to go walking/climbing/horse-riding in the morning…

5. Stay hydrated
A common cause of feeling sick in the mountains actually turns out to be dehydration. This is a sneaky one, as you often won’t feel thirsty due to the climate! Make sure you drink plenty of water throughout the day, thirsty or not thirsty, and always carry a (full) bottle with you whenever you go for a walk.
ContentImage 2664 71066 PukeBottle 600x448 A guide to getting high: surviving the altitudephoto by the Muir project
I usually loathe headgear of all sorts (unless we’re talking about a blue wig or a pirate hat and I’m attending a festival), but it is absolutely necessary to wear a hat when going for a long walk in the Andes: at this height, you’re much closer to the sun! Don’t forget to also wear sunglasses and sunscreen.

6. Try the local remedy
Mostly grown in Bolivia, Peru and Columbia, coca leaves are an effective way to prevent soroche. Yes, coca leaves, the ones which, chemically transformed, turn into cocaine. Unaltered, though, they are a medicinal herb which characteristics amaze scientists: people here say that it possesses as much as 170 different properties – including heightening physical resistance, facilitating digestion and preventing tooth decay. Used by Indians in South America for over 5 000 years, it is perfectly legal and commonly consumed here. Don’t try to bring coca leaves back home, though: in most Western countries, it is considered a base product for cocaine and is strictly illegal.
Among its many benefits, la coca helps taming mountain sickness by favouring blood oxygenation. You will easily find coca leaves at local markets or shops, for a very reasonable price: I paid 5 pesos argentinos (about 1 US$) for a medium-size bag in Salta.
You can simply chew the leaves, but coca pretty much tastes like grass. If you don’t have the soul of a ruminant, put a few leaves into your mouth and form a small ball; then stick this DIY chewing-gum on one side of your mouth, between your gum and your cheek, and just leave it there. With both methods, the aim is to extract the “juice” contained in the leaf to allow it to be absorbed by your body! When the leaves are out of juice, spit them out. I saw a Quechua Indian progressively insert a good thirty leaves into his mouth, ending up with what looked like a ping-pong ball stuck inside his cheek! I personally went for six or seven.
However, my favourite method to extract the benefits of the coca is hacer in tecito (to make a tea): it tastes delicious and, what’s more, keeps you hydrated! Put a few leaves in a big thermos of hot water with a bit of azĂșcar (sugar), and take it with you when you go for a walk! I really did feel that it relieved shortness of breath during the five-hour hike I did in Huacalera.
7. Always carry aspirin
All of the previous tips will help prevent mountain sickness, but even if you strictly apply them you might sometimes feel like your brain is hammering against the inside part of your skull. This might happen when you least expect it, so be sure to carry aspirin (or ibuprofen) with you at all times.
What follows is not exactly mountain sickness-related, but on your list of things-to-carry-with-you-at-all-times-in-the-Andes, be sure to also add tweezers. Locals say that you won’t understand the spirit of the Andes until you fall into a cactus… Well, believe me: at the climax of intense spiritual connection with the mountains, you’ll be happy you brought a thorn-removing device with you.
Taken from:
http://www.travelettes.net/a-guide-to-getting-high-surviving-the-altitude/

How to avoid danger when mountain climbing

Mountain climbing is considered by some to be an extreme sport because of the risks and hazards associated with it. Imagine climbing up the world’s tallest peak, where the summit offers very little oxygen to go along with the biting-cold weather. Mountain climbing can be considered a dangerous sport or hobby, yet there are still many people around the world who want to take the challenge and adventure of mountain climbing.
Mountain climbing isn’t for everyone, particularly in dealing with the highest and most dangerous mountains. A mountain climber, whether amateur or professional, has to have a certain degree of athletic ability and fitness. With low fitness quality, it would be doubly dangerous to go mountain climbing because of more risks involved.
Good fitness
is another requirement to avoid mountain climbing accidents, which is always a possibility because of the unpredictability of nature. An example of this would be if a climber suddenly slips and gets stuck somehow. A fat and out-of-shape climber would have a far more difficult time picking himself back up due to his added weight, as opposed to a fit climber.
However, good fitness is only one good way to avoid a mountain climbing accident – it certainly isn’t the only way. Another essential way to avoid an accident is to scout the territory first before attempting to do the climb. An amateur or beginner mountain climber shouldn’t attempt to try to conquer the world’s top peaks without first getting experience by climbing easier mountains. That way, a climber will be prepared in facing more dangers in tougher mountains.
Proper equipment
is also another necessity to better ensure safety during the climb. Most mountains, particularly in Europe, have snow as the summit nears. As such, it would be important for climbers to have snowshoes for better footing and to prevent slippage. Slipping could potentially start an avalanche, which would be disastrous for the climber and his/her companions.
Another essential way to prevent accidents happens before the actual climb – weather forecasts. The old clichĂ© “it’s better safe than sorry” applies here. If the forecast of the general area of the mountain is bad, a climber should strongly consider not going as planned and instead postpone the climb for a few days until the weather improves, or cancel it. It will be extremely dangerous going mountain climbing with bad weather.
By following these tips, a climber can have a better chance of avoiding accidents. Be aware that they may still occur, as it is nature that is being dealt with.
Taken from:
http://blog.hammerwave.com/2011/how-to-avoid-mountain-climbing-accidents/

Equipment to take


Upper Body-

* Wind/waterproof/breathable jacket;
* 1 medium to heavy down/duvet jacket or synthetic fill jacket, insulated hood is a plus;
* 1 soft shell type or 200 weight fleece warm layer;
* Down/duvet or synthetic sweater or vest;
* 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirt. Lightweight, light colored better for sun;
* 1 polypropylene t-shirt;
* Womens sports bras. Synthetic. Cotton is not appropriate. back to top 

Hands-

* 1 pair mittens, consists of 1 water proof (gore-tex) over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner,
* 1 pr. lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts; back to top 

Head-

* 1 heavy weight warm hat wool or synthetic (balaclava);
* 1 light weight warm hat wool or synthetic;
* Face mask or neck gaiter (for wind);
* Visor or sun cap;
* Glacier glasses. 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case;
* Headlamp with extra batteries & bulbs. Must be reliable with a strong beam. LEDs and Halogen Combos are good. back to top 

Lower Body-

* 1 pr wind/waterproof/breathable (gore-tex) trousers, salopettes, or bibs. Mid-heavy weight with side zips;
* 1 pr medium weight polar fleece trousers;
* 1 pr medium weight polypropylene/thermal leggings;
* 1 pr lightweight polypropylene/thermal leggings;
* 1 pr non-cotton walking trousers;
* 2 pair lightweight long underwear. Polypropylene or capilene;
* 1 pair nylon shorts. Quick-drying type for hiking, please no cotton. back to top 

Feet-



* Double plastic boots (koflach). The boots must fit with one thick and one thin pair of socks with room to spare, not too tight;
* Crampons must fit the boots perfectly;
* Light hiking shoes or trail shoes. For the hike to base camp and acclimatization hikes;
* Gaiters, make sure they will fit over plastic boots;
* 1 pair sandals are optional, nice for town or basecamp;
* 2 pair of liner socks;
* vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags;
* 3 pair heavy wool/synthetic socks. back to top 

Sleeping-
* Sleeping bag. Rated to at least -10 to - 15 C / 0 to 15 F;

* Sleeping pad. 1 full length closed cell foam. back to top 

Rucksack-

* Internal frame rucksack, large (80 litre/5000 cubic inches);
* 1 daypack for the approach hike, possible use on summit day and carry-on pack. If you plan to use it for your summit pack it must be large enough for your down jacket, misc. clothes, food and water;
* Travel, kit, or duffel bag with lock, (80‑100 litre/5,000-6,000 cubic inches). Your porter will carry this large bag;
* Medium size travel, kit, duffel bag (with locks) for storage at the hotel in Mendoza. back to top 

Personal Hygiene-

* Female or male hygiene supplies;
* Personal toiletry kit;
* Hand wipes and camp towel;
* 2 Lip balm. Make sure it is sun-proof;
* Sunscreen. At least SPF 40. back to top 

Medical-

* Small personal first aid kit, ibuprofuren, bandaids, etc.;
* Extra prescription glasses, extra contact lens supplies (contact lens wearers: there is a lot of dust, you definitely need to bring prescription glasses as a backup);
* 1 bottle water purification tablets, drops, or filter;
* Ear plugs. back to top 

Personal Food-


Meals along the trek are provided by the leaders and once we reach basecamp, fresh, tasty food and hot drinks are prepared by our logistics staff in a full kitchen and dining tent. The leaders cook and fill water bottles above basecamp.

* Favorite snack foods. 1 kg / 2 pounds is a good amount (you may buy these in Mendoza);
* 4 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for the high camp. back to top 

Practical-


 
* 3 water bottles. Nalgene type (1 is a pee bottle);
* Plastic mug. Nice for hot drinks;
* Bowl and spoon. Plastic, small tupperware works well;
* Pocket knife;
* 3 large plastic bags/rubbish sacks. For keeping miscellaneous gear dry;
* Nylon stuff sacks. For food and gear storage and large ziplocs;
* Extra Cotton Shirts, lighters, candy bars or power bars;
* Bandanas;
* Thermos (optional);
* Basecamp entertainment. For example: paperback books, playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, small sturdy musical instruments, etc.;
* Camera (you will need to sleep with your camera at night and keep it in your jacket during the day);
* Cash for hotels, visas, small items and gratuities. Credit cards, traveler's cheques, bank/atm cards. Use an "under the trousers" money belt, not one of those round‑the‑neck jobs or bum‑bags that are really more of a sign showing where the money is;
* Passport, proof of insurance card, flight ticket. Keep all in plastic bag;
* Town clothes are recommended in addition to this list above;
* Please be sure and bring your patience and try to keep an open, relaxed, positive and friendly attitude as travelling in this part of the world may be very different than what you are used to, but things always seem to fall into place at the last moment. Thank you. back to top 

Climbing-
BLACK DIAMOND Raven Pro Ice Axe - Eastern Mountain Sports
* Ice axe with leash, lightweight (both Normal Traverse and Polish Direct);

* Adjustable trekking poles. back to top

Equipment Needed for Polish Direct (not Normal Traverse)
MAMMUT Element Key Lock Screwgate Carabiner - Eastern Mountain Sports
* Climbing harness with light weight adjustable leg loops, "alpine-bod" or other;
* Climbing helmet, must fit with warm hat underneath;
* Descender-belay device: "atc'' or other;
* 2 metres/5 foot length piece of 6mm cord;
* 2 regular and 1 locking carabiners. Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended;
* A second light weight technical ice axe is a good idea.

BEAL Wall Master IV 10.5 mm X 200 m UNICORE Standard Climbing Rope - Eastern Mountain Sports
Sources: http://www.summitclimb.com/new/default.asp?mtype=&vid=146&chyes=y&prid=90